More than a decade ago, we had family in town seeking a good hike with a good view, so we hit the road destined for Silver Falls State Park.
About two-thirds of the way into our journey, we slowed to 30 mph in the quaint town of Mt. Angel, population 3,400. I knew it mostly as the home of the annual Oktoberfest celebration.
At Main and Church Streets, I glanced to my left and saw the towering 200-foot spire of St. Mary Catholic Church a few blocks away, easily 15 stories taller than anything else in town. To the surprise of my brother driving the car behind us, I immediately yanked the wheel to the east, eagerly gawking at the church as I drove toward it. Humored by my family, I spent a good 15 minutes soaking in the beauty of this 1912-era sanctuary, photographing as I went and wishing I could stay longer.
I have a visceral reaction when I see an old church: one of awe, a sense of peace, a moment of appreciation for old-world workmanship in the name of faith. The soaring interiors remind the congregation of the greatness of their God. I love old buildings in general, but even a small country church creates an ambience unavailable in most other architecture of the same period.
I live in Portland, Oregon, which is part of a region with a well-publicized reputation for post-Christianity: Oregon and neighboring Washington are two of the top five “least-churched” states in the country (see the chart below from sociologist Ryan Burge). Many church buildings are vacant and decaying with neglect, the result of our anti-religious nature as well as the COVID-19 shutdown.
Yet despite this effect on church buildings, there are still a multitude of gems that are virtually unknown outside a given neighborhood. About a year into the pandemic, I started making a list of historic churches in the Northwest (the vast majority within an hour of my house); I’m up to nearly 100 that have already hit the century mark, including more than 40 from the 19th century.
Some are pristinely maintained, others are tired, and some are just plain worn out; others have met an untimely end. But they all tell a story of the people whose vision brought that building into existence, and the generations that have kept that vision alive for generations to follow.
These are the stories I hope to tell, together with images that show the beauty of each sanctuary. Because of where I live, this website will have a distinct focus on Northwest Oregon and Southwest Washington, but I expect to include other areas as I travel around the Pacific Northwest — and even beyond.
After our vacation to the United Kingdom in 2022, you should expect some interspersed English parishes and cathedrals here and there. It’s impossible to compete with European churches that have been around for a millennia or longer, but I’m still drawn to the beauty of a 19th century Northwest church, and look forward to sharing that with you.
I’m glad you’re here for the ride. If you know of a church that’s interesting to you, send me a note about it!